How It's Made

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic Steps

In this article, Swedish denim enthusiast Timmy Persson will guide you through the 10 basic steps it take to make the pattern you need to make your own jeans.

Step 1: Put on your favourite jeans

The first thing you do is to put on your favorite pair of jeans. You then mark the center front of the waistband, the thickest area of your behind and thigh, the knee, the lower leg, and the hem. Then you measure the length between all the areas and the width on the marks from seam to seam and both on the front and the back. The pattern that Timmy uses as a starting point is a quite narrow fit.

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsHow to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsStep 2: Draw the Pattern

When all measuring is done it’s time to start making the actual pattern. You start by adding all the measurements of the length to get the outer seam length. Since Timmy uses a selvedge denim he wants the outer seam to be totally straight. Therefore, he starts by doing two straight lines in the same length as the total amount of all the length points. Now you have the start of the front and the back.

You then place the marking points on to both of the lines. You draw out the width lines on the marking spots; the left line is your front side and the right line is your back.

Then it’s time to shape the pant. You simply follow the markings that you have made. Be aware that it can be a little tricky to get the right shape on the back rise and the crouch seam. A good thing to do is to make a pair of “shorts” without details just to see if you’re on the right track with the pattern.

As the cut of Timmy’s jeans is inspired by the early 20th century style, he needs to reshape the pattern, make the crouch seam a bit longer, and lift the waist.

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsHow to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic Steps

Step 3: Shape Waistband

Then, start shaping of the waistband; Timmy wanted it to be 3.5 cm, so he make some marks and then he just had to follow them.

Step 4: Shape Pockets

After that, shape of the front pocket, the fly, pocket bag, and also the watch pocket.

Step 5: Position Yoke and Back Pockets

On the back, Timmy put out his yoke together with the size and position of the back pocket; the shaping of the back pocket he leaves till later.

Step 6: Re-Draw on Silk Paper

Now it’s time to re-draw the details on a new piece of silk paper. For the pocket bag and the fly you double fold the paper before you cut it out like this.

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsHow to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsStep 7: Make the Waistband

When you do your waistband you need to have a smooth transition from the back piece to the front piece, and when you re-draw it, you put them together.

Step 8: Shape the Back Pockets

Next you have to shape the back pocket. Timmy chose a rounder look for his jeans.

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsHow to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic Steps

Step 9: Draw the Pattern on Paper

When all the pieces are cut out it’s time to put them on to a less flexible piece of paper: this will make it easier for you to draw the pattern on to the fabric.

How to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsHow to Make Jeans Pattern: The 10 Basic StepsStep 10: Deciding of seam allowance

The last step is to decide on seam allowance. The seam allowance that Timmy uses for almost everywhere is 1 cm; however, he you want narrower selvedge edge so there he used 0.7 cm. In places where he will be using a lap seam he use 1.3 cm; and for the hem he use 3 cm.

And that’s it.

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  • Baffle Jeans

    Thanks for explaining this so clearly – I am now able to make jeans that fit.

  • Vebo

    looks pretty easy! i need to try it! :) thanks!!