The Seventeenth Episode of The Denim & Boots Podcast

This week on the podcast, Jake and I are doing a special podcast version of AMA (ask me everything) where answering listener questions. Stay tuned for the longest episodes we’ve put out so far.

News of the week

Indigoproof introduced a VIP list

Indigo Proof has created a VIP list to cut down the waiting time for repairs.

The email reads: “Repairs have been filled for almost an entire year, and I’m SO happy to be able to tell you that the year-long waitlist is now a thing of the past! I’m rolling out a totally NEW way of accepting repair work”.

As far as I understand, Rain has closed her other email list and will only be sending out emails to those who sign up for her new list. So be sure to join it if you want to stay updated.

Repair booking opens on today. Here’s the sign-up link.

Okayama Denim in the Japan Times

Merv Sethi of Okayama Denim featured with a full-page spread in Japan’s national newspaper, the Japan Times! You can read it here.

Topic of the week: Ask us anything

Below are all the questions we got. Listen to the episode to hear our answers.

@antonbalzer

“I feel like selvedge flies are getting difficult to find. Brands don’t do it as much anymore?”

@lucaszfitz

“Who is the biggest chungus in the denim world?”

@bestwatchgrams

“What’s your favorite sneakers?”

@mapledenimguy

“What kind of sneakers do you guys like to wear?”

@helge1896

“What sneakers do you like to wear with denim?”

@devin21_95

“What makes John Lofgren the most superior premade boot even beating out some custom boots?”

@alexdefaro

“Can never get that sanforized/unsanforized thing. When to size up or down?”

My answer: Sizing highly depends on the brand. If you can’t try on the jeans, at least get the measurements.

But you’re right that whether the denim is sanforized or not certainly influences how the jeans will fit after you wash the jeans.

Unwashed, unsanforized denim shrinks around 10%. That’s around a size in the waist. Maybe more. However, it will stretch out a little again after a couple of wears. In the length, 10% will equal a couple of inches, so be sure to shrink them down before you have them hemmed.

@joshjones_85

“Thoughts on White’s boots? (specially the Bounty Hunter style)

@c__jonas

“Can you explain the differences between pure indigo, natural indigo, and synthetic indigo?”

My answer: Pure indigo can be both natural and synthetic. “Pure” simply means it’s 100% without any sulphur top or bottom. So the cast will be red.

@beardo_ryan

“How do you know when Dainite soles are ready to be resoled?”

Giacomo

“What do we think (and know) about $50 jeans from brands like H&M, Uniqlo, GAP, etc.?”

My answer: I don’t have any hands-on experience with either of the brands, but my choice would be Uniqlo.

Objectively, jeans produced by vertical retail brands like the ones mentioned can be qualitywise on par with mid-level brands that coat up to twice as much. They’ll be made in a similar way, with similar fabrics and attention to details. It’s all a matter of margins, really!

Brands like the ones we mentioned on episode #11 or more interesting in my perspective. But you cannot compare them with Uniqlo jeans.

@johnny0815hh

“Thoughts on Red Wing?”

Abhay John

“What are the alternatives to the Viberg service boot on the 2030 last. Since the quality control of Viberg is not at par with something at that price range. What other companies make something similar on that sleek last?”

@whoiseumir

“What clothing pieces do you wear in the rain that keeps the vintage/rugged/workwear look?”

Paul “Glowingglass” Dutra

“I’m finding better denim companies only offer one length inseam. I understand the economy of doing so, but it seems that hemming or cuffing more than 6” would throw off the geometry/taper of how the jeans are intended to fit (ie, my knees are now where the thigh should be).

That may be a drastic example, but you get my point. So is there a better denim company that offers a shorter inseam (30” rather than 36”) or offers complimentary hem/taper that I am not aware of?”

My answer: I might be wrong, but I don’t think the Japanese brands that sell only L36 make them to fit taller guys.

@jblankenship_0930

“What’s the most uncomfortable footwear you’ve ever worn? Leather or not?

@evan.n.99

“What would be your full “cartoon character” outfit (one outfit to wear every day)?”

@legitdenimhead

“Jake: Sell me one of your FW jackets, maybe?”

@partial2denim

“For a beginner which I’m not): each recommend a jacket, shirt, jeans, and boots.”

@jeremyosz

“What is the most unconventional piece of workwear you own?”

@206edc

“First pair of selvedge denim was Iron Heart 666. Recommendation for next pair?”

@billy_ebner

“Is sea wash considered cheating/quick way for fades?”

My answer: I don’t think it‘s cheating, it‘s just a way of washing that I wouldn’t recommend. At least you’d most likely have to do a machine wash after the ocean wash, because it’ll make your jeans smell. Whether it speeds up the fading process, I would most certainly say no.

Suggested podcast episode: How to wash your jeans

Anonymous

“When will the Ende end?”

@shadesofindig0

Q1: “What item from what brand do you think is much better than its competitors? (At different price levels.)

Q2: “What is your overall favorite piece of kit?”

@redheadbluebottom

Q1: “Do you think there’s a place for more swapping or trading in the heritage menswear world?”

Q2: “Do you talk about denim/heritage style with your parents?”

Q3: “Thoughts on ocean washing? I think it’s a load of crap.”

Q4: “What do you think of dudes who sleep in the denim for ‘the fadeZzzz’”?

Q5: “Why doesn’t Jake move somewhere where he can wear jackets all year round?”

Q6: “Thomas, how will you handle kids being embarrassed by your double denim when you roll up to pick them up from parties when they’re teens?”

Q7: “What would it take for Jake to wear shorts in public?”

Q8: “Why won’t the ‘never wash your denims omg NEVER’ myth die?”

Sigve Tømta Sletten

“I wanted to ask Jake what he thinks about the Indonesian shoe brands like Santulum, Onderhoud and Sagara? How do they offer handwelted shoes at such a low price?”

@hamzahotae (from @nbdn)

“See you at Denim Days 2019 in Amsterdam?”

@206edc

“Viberg, Nicks or White’s for casual boots?”

Eric Steffen (@fitted.underground)

“What’s been the biggest surprise about doing the podcast for you both?”

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