This second episode in the series about how jeans are made teaches the cutting and sewing steps of making jeans, and discusses the 3 most debated aspects of sewing jeans.
This article explores what it takes to design a pair of jeans, and the three stages denim designers go through to do so.
You’ll learn how the design influences all aspects of the garment; how it looks, how it feels on the body, how it wears and fades. The design also differentiates one maker’s from another’s.
Learn How to Sew the Front of Jeans If you have done all the prep work, it is time to start assembling the two halves of the jean. In mass production, the backs and fronts are sewn at the same time by different sewers. Obviously, if you don’t have a sewing floor with multiple sewing operators you cannot do this. Some home sewers and tailors like to sew two legs and then sew them together. This method does not work for jeans. The most obvious reason is that the back rise and front rise are topstitched. On top of that they are sewn with two separate machines. If you’ve seen pants sewn that way, or read about it in a home-sewing book, just forget about it for now. Terms to Learn Before You Start Fabric has two sides. A right side, and a wrong side. The right side is the “top” one; for denim that’s the indigo side. Straightforward enough with fabrics that look different on both sides, but it can become more confusing with fabrics that look similar on both sides, like front pocket bags. Also, when something is seamed the orientation of the fabric needs to be specified. This is expressed by terms like “wrong sides together” or “right sides together.” Another thing to note is how a seam works. Without the use of folders, the first line of sewing will always create the actual seam. Then that seam is topstitched, which is the sewing visible from the outside of the garment. If this doesn’t make sense to you, look at the outseam of your jeans; you cannot see the stitching from the outside, but underneath the selvedge edges on the outseam you will see a line of stitching. Then look at your inseam; it was probably sewn the same…