During the Bluezone show in January, Ruedi Karrer aka the Swiss Jeans Freak from the Jeans Museum and I walked through our collab denim exhibition, which highlighted how denim’s past has inspired innovation.
The Osaka Five are the pioneers of Japanese and heritage denim; they laid the foundation for an internationally renowned industry. This is their story.
In this 4th part of my series about the history of jeans, you’ll learn how the Japanese built a cult around Americana, which evolved into heritage fashion.
The Berlin trade show industry is in a state of flux. Berliner Frank B. Halfar reports about the lay of the land and has qualified guesses about the future.
Almost every denim industry Insider knows WGSN Trend Forecaster, Amy Leverton. Learn how the impact Amy has on your wardrobe.
The near obsessive following EVISU have garnered since their inception in 1991 has been down to their equally obsessive attention to detail when making jeans. Much in the same way the finest Cuban cigars don’t leave Cuba and the most prized Caribbean rum is kept by the locals, to see Japanese denim of this quality and obscurity outside of Japan is a rare sight indeed. That’s why the release of their Private Stock denim outside of Japan has gone down very well with their European fans. We had a closer look at the No. 2 2000 XX. Much has been said of the Osaka based label founded by avid jeans collector and trained tailor, Hidehiko Yamane. Whilst some prefer something a little subtler, there is no doubt that EVISU have made a huge impact on the premium jeans market. Their uncompromising dedication and bold style has resulted in many imitators and they are often the ones blazing a trail and shaking up usual denim conventions. The Private Stock jeans have all been made using vintage looms in Okayama, Japan and come in a right hand 14.5 oz. sanforised red selvedge denim. The gull arcuates on the back pockets have all been meticulously painted by hand and pay homage to the iconic Levi’s 1944 S501xx. With a regular fit and a slight taper from the knee to the hem, these are a fine pair of jeans made even more exclusive due to the rarity of seeing this quality of denim craftsmanship outside of Japan. The right hand twill construction is also an influence taken from Levi’s. However, EVISU have gone a step further and mixed things up by making the pockets out of left hand twill denim to provide a contrast in appearance to the eagle eyed denim obsessive. Other details…
In this article we try to demystify ‘Japanese denim,’ the exploitation of a nation brand, and the of legend of what today is an industry.
This is a guest post by Paul Travi. In the last week of January, denim aficionados once again had the opportunity to connect with their favorite brands in the Blueprint area at Amsterdam’s Modefabriek trade show; the most important of its kind in The Netherlands. The Blueprint area bathed in a throbbing blue atmosphere where exhibitors met denimheads and the general public, felt special. Japanese brands were showcasing their goods for the first time, a highlight of the show for diehard denimheads like yours truly. Brands like Momotaro, Japan Blue, Evisu and Edwin were sublimely mixing in between local brands like Denham, Kings of Indigo, Tulp Jeans, and Benzak Denim Developers. Denham The Dutch brand surprised us with a brilliant idea: a pop-up repair store with an unorthodox team in addition to their booth. In one corner sat Clint James – Denham resident repair artist – and in the other corner were the Grivec brothers, Marcel and Roger, dry denim and denim repairs experts. Visitors were offered a free repair; even Jason Demhan himself sat behind the machines. Denham were also presenting their new denim collection Category 5, together with well-crafted garments for men and women. Oyuki Denim The brainchild of Guido Kerssens, a professor at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, this raw denim brand is remarkable in its target group, which is kids. Guido, a denimhead himself, has had problems finding affordable dry denim for his young daughter, so he decided to make a pair of jeans for her. After the first prototype was done, positive feedback encouraged him to take them to production. Oyuki Denim jeans might be for kids, but they are full of grownup details, such as orange selvedge, branded rivets, branded buttons, and raw stretch denim. Pig & Hen Pig and Hen is a small company specialising in bracelets. The two…