In the second episode of our 3-part mini-documentary about how to recreate fades in a more sustainable way at Soorty’s NASDA lab, we make the jeans.
Back in November, Wouter Munnichs and I visited Soorty’s NASDA innovation lab in Turkey to recreate our own worn-in jeans in the most sustainable way possible.
The fourth step of how to make jeans is to sew the back of jeans. The backs are far simpler to make than the fronts; it is three seams and the back pockets.
Learn How to Sew the Front of Jeans If you have done all the prep work, it is time to start assembling the two halves of the jean. In mass production, the backs and fronts are sewn at the same time by different sewers. Obviously, if you don’t have a sewing floor with multiple sewing operators you cannot do this. Some home sewers and tailors like to sew two legs and then sew them together. This method does not work for jeans. The most obvious reason is that the back rise and front rise are topstitched. On top of that they are sewn with two separate machines. If you’ve seen pants sewn that way, or read about it in a home-sewing book, just forget about it for now. Terms to Learn Before You Start Fabric has two sides. A right side, and a wrong side. The right side is the “top” one; for denim that’s the indigo side. Straightforward enough with fabrics that look different on both sides, but it can become more confusing with fabrics that look similar on both sides, like front pocket bags. Also, when something is seamed the orientation of the fabric needs to be specified. This is expressed by terms like “wrong sides together” or “right sides together.” Another thing to note is how a seam works. Without the use of folders, the first line of sewing will always create the actual seam. Then that seam is topstitched, which is the sewing visible from the outside of the garment. If this doesn’t make sense to you, look at the outseam of your jeans; you cannot see the stitching from the outside, but underneath the selvedge edges on the outseam you will see a line of stitching. Then look at your inseam; it was probably sewn the same…
Step Two In Our How To Make Jeans Guide Is About Pattern Making, Cutting, and Other Prep Work When you look at a finely crafted pair of jeans you often notice quality fabric, clean construction, and nice hardware. But when is the last time someone bragged about the pattern that made their jeans, or how well it must have been cut out? In this series of articles, we take you through the process of making jeans. The second step is to make the pattern as well as cutting the denim correctly and finally do the prep work of smaller sewing tasks. Just like the blueprint for a house, you can’t see the patterns or how they were cut when the jeans are finished, but there wouldn’t be any jeans without them. Pattern making and cutting are often passed over and rarely recognized for their importance but without a well-made pattern there is no way to make a quality garment. Pattern making and cutting are often passed over and rarely recognized for their importance but without a well-made pattern there is no way to make a quality garment. Patterns: Get It Right – Hire a Pattern Maker Unfortunately, pattern making is the least fun and most important part of making any garment. We suggest to anyone thinking about making jeans to hire a pattern maker. It is well worth the expense as pattern making is the most difficult skill to learn when making any garment. In the next installment, you’ll see all your different machines from step 1 of the series put to use, and we’ll put the quality of patterns and the cutting to the test
The Machiaverno brothers, founders of Metazashi, take you through the process of how to make jeans. The first step is to get the proper sewing machines.